July 24, 2015

Custom Suits

Why Manly Collections?

From inception, we set out to create the highest quality suits possible using the finest cloth from world-renowned Italian mills and premier manufacturers in Europe.  However, a world-class suit should not cost you $5,000.  We committed a significant amount of time deconstructing our industry as well as comparing brands, tailoring techniques, cloth mills, and the logistical aspects of the process.  Our Founder’s high attention to detail allows Manly Collections to offer some of the finest custom suits in the world at an extremely generous price.

A great suit is much more than a good fit and nice fabric.  We seek to enlighten our customers and assist them in making sound, and well-informed decisions regarding investing in their appearance.  Below we break down what goes into creating our pride and joy – a Manly Collections’ suit.

Custom Suits

100% wool sports jacket made from our finest Vitale Barberis Canonico with a defining peak lapel.

Bespoke

Made to measure: We believe an affordable suit that is well fitting looks better than an expensive suit that fits poorly.  Several companies only take a few measurements and do not offer the client much control over the fit.  Manly Collections considers over 26 measurements when fitting a two-piece suit.  Our clients pick from several lapel cuts and widths, pockets, vents, linings, trim, functional buttons, colored buttonholes, and monograms among other options.  Just the right combination allows you to put your personality into the garment and create a truly one-of-a-kind suit.

Italian Cloth

Material: A suit’s composition is the most basic component of its cost or value.  Less expensive suits are commonly made of polyester or other synthetics.  That being said, several “name brands” also manufacture using inexpensive cloth, yet charge strictly due to its brand name.  Given your price point, seek out 100% wool, cotton, linen, cashmere, lambs wool, vicuna, or silk cloth based on your preferences.

Super Count: Understanding your climate and what you traditionally wear the suit for is essential in determining the cloth to select.  Conventionally, fineness is also referred to as the super count, such as “Super 120s”, and the fineness of the cloth determines just how soft and silky the suit will feel.  The higher the super count, the finer the cloth.  The number is a gauge for how small and fine the yarn is twisted prior to being woven.  Most suits range from Super 100s to Super 180s, but it is prevalent to note that the super count is not a regulated number and different brands or mills might state a number that may differ from a competitor.  The finer the cloth, the more expensive it is to mill, creating a higher cost per suit.  For everyday suits, Super 100s to Super 140s are typically best.

Custom Suits

Super Count 130 with adjustable trousers made with medium-weight brown and black plaid with a blue overcheck.

Craftsmanship

Linings, Buttons, and Collars:  Fine suit lining is made of cupro, a revamped cotton material that is silk-like upon touch.  Cupro is a breathable and durable product.  Inferior linings are made from polyester.  When used on the inside of the suit, polyester holds heat in, negating some of the best properties of wool on the outside of the suit.  Manly Collections offers more than 300 customized linings and we supply a variety of customized buttons instead of the inferior plastic product.  Wool is used under the jacket collars to promote quality.

Custom Suits

Personalize your suit and make it one-of-a-kind.

Assembly: Great cloth can only get you so far.  In order to create a Manly Collections suit, the cloth needs to be tailored using skilled expertise and exceptional materials.  Suits can be constructed by hand, machine, or by a mixture of both.  Manly Collections uses a combination of machine and handwork.  In many cases, machine tailoring is actually preferred for consistency reasons, while other processes are better finished by hand.

Instead of fusing the chest with glue, Manly Collections uses a floating canvas, so the jacket holds up better over time. Manly Collections’ standard construction is half canvassed, which means that the floating chest piece extends from the shoulder line, down through the lapel, and ends around the bottom of the ribs. We also offer full canvas suits as well as completely unstructured and unlined options.

There are several questions someone shopping for a suit should ask. For instance, what tailoring techniques are used to attach the collar? How are the buttonholes created? How should the sleeve head fit into the sleeve? What denotes a quality lapel cut? From what we have noticed, generally these questions are sort of a black box to consumers, but the wide range of variation is a significant component for retail prices and how long your suit will hold up. Big box store clerks traditionally do not have a clue what separates one suit from another. It is best to have guidance yet several options. For instance, we typically recommend functioning buttons to help your suit standout. Extra padding or none at all are also options for our shoulder pads, but we usually advocate for minimal padding. A heel guard at the bottom of the trouser hem comes standard to avoid rips and fraying. These are just a few options. To say the least, the Manly Collections difference is distinct and evident!

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